Since Nepal I travelled in India, spent the summer in Wisconsin and visited friends and family around the US before returning for my 3rd season at McMurdo Station, Antarctica. This time, I came down earlier than ever before for the season referred to as "winfly" or the winter fly-in, when the first people arrive on the ice since the winter season began in March.
( http://antarcticsun.usap.gov/features/contenthandler.cfm?id=2495#top )
This is a very special time of year in Antarctica. It is still winter, so it is dark most of the day, with only a glimpse of sun that paints the sky for a short time each day. I would walk up the hill to work each morning in the dark, stars and moon shining in the sky above me and for about 4 hours from 10-2 the sky would turn a gorgeous orange and purple, sunrise and sunset colors, splashing the Transantarctic Mountains across the sea ice with it's colors, then turn to darkness again.
There were a fraction of people here for this time of year, some winter-over folks and the fresh winfly folks making for some great times. In October, the main body season began and with it hundreds of people came in waves of C-17 flights every other day and also with it came the sun, back again 24 hours a day, as well as the beginning of the science season.
This year I was the Painter in the Carpenters shop. I paint what the carpenter's craft for science or for the town, maintain the town paint and drywall needs, and help out with whatever I am asked to do! I had the privilege of joining the carpenter's to open BYRD filed camp in Western Antarctica in November, one of three deep field camps that we stet up this year. ( http://byrdcamp.com/)
This camp supports science and is an airport linking planes to other deep field camps like, PIG. ( http://pigiceshelf.nasa.gov/ ) We spent two weeks setting up tents, basically building a village in remote Antarctica. It was a pretty amazing experience. I lived in a mountain tent, ate gourmet food, played music with great musicians, shoveled for hours, settled down into a fierce storm that had winds blowing snow drifts up to 6 feet around our tents, didn't shower for 12 days, had a thanksgiving feast that rivaled any thanksgiving feast in the past 28 years and met some great folks from all walks of life. I also got extremely frustrated at being stuck there for 5 days because of weather! I learned what the famous Antarctic proverb, "IF a plane lands, get on it!!" meant and true it is! (see photo with outhouse graffiti)
The month of December at McMurdo is always a treat. It is the holiday season, which here means about two or three Christmas decorations and lots of parties :) The annual Women's Soiree is always a treat featuring the numerous talents of the women of McMurdo, as well as our annual art galley party on christmas night, followed by Icestock, the continents only music festival, which this year had great warm weather and a chili cook off. All these things help to make the 6 day work week bearable and are a large part of the reason, i reckon, so many people are drawn to and return to this place. I also got out to Salmon Bay for a day trip to take a tent down and was able to hike to the Hobbs Glacier nearby... Salmon Bay is right across the Ross sea from McMurdo, the gateway to the Dry Valleys.
Tomorrow, I am going up to Mt. Erebus camp, to maintain the hut there. The floor needs paint, badly I hear form the scientist who have worked there. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Erebus) I will go with a few carps and other field support staff for a week to maintain and shut down the huts. This will be the trip of my season!!! I am super excited to hang out at the top of the southern most volcano in the world!
With 5 weeks left in my 6 month season, I am more than ready to set foot on green grass again! But 5 weeks on the ice can contain so many surprises... Stay tuned.
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